September 6th: I awoke to a lovely sunny morning in Tralee. I went on a walk about before breakfast and met up with the group of cyclists I had spotted last night. I got talking to one man about their cycle. They were heading to Lahinch and then Galway. They were fundraising for cancer. He was a mixture of impressed and disbelieving when he heard I had cycled from Donegal into the wind and on my own. I almost felt as if I was a child in confession “bless me father I have sinned, I cycled into the wind and on my own”!!!

I waited as they all gathered to take off. I felt a tinge of envy as I saw the outriders, ambulances and pick up cars as back up.

After breakfast I met Geraldine again for a coffee and a final check in as I headed out on the last stage Kerry/Cork of my odyssey. Dingle here I come.

The sun shone as I cycled through Blennerville and out the road to Camp. I love this cycle with the Atlantic on my right and looking across at Ballyheigue and Ballybunion. This was one of my practice routes last year up and down the Conor Pass proving to myself I could cycle up the highest pass in Ireland. I achieved this feat again and stopped to take in yet again this amazing cycle route. As steep as the cycle is uphill the downhill into Dingle is spectacular free wheeling all the way.  I felt a broad smile sweep across my face as  I arrived in Dingle.

I stopped for a coffee and scone and just enjoyed being there watching the world go by, before wandering out by Slea Head. As I approached Dún Chaoin the sun disappeared and a dull grey sky accompanied me to Campail Teach an Aragail my favourite place in the world. Gráinne was there to meet me with our new tent and equipment. I was greeted by TP and Sorcha the owners of the campsite as if I had circumnavigated the globe! I could feel a surge of pride run through me as they questioned me about the trip so far. This couple have made our regular visits a source of delight and joy. I also get to brush up on my Irish as they are native speakers.

After tea and chat we pitched our tent and drove into Dingle for a bit to eat and an Irish music session. We intended to stay for a few days and chill out but if I thought the weather was bad up to now it was set to deteriorate rapidly. Rain, rain and more rain fell and the forecasts were getting worse for storms and high winds. I reassessed my plans and made a decision to cut down the distances and to stay 2 days in some places from now on.

September 9th: We took down the tent, packed the car and  Gráinne drove to Castlemaine. We had a late breakfast and I packed the bike, set the Garmin and hit the road for Cahersiveen.

” I am in the Sive Hostel tonight with the intention of getting up early tomorrow to arrive in Sneem before the wind gets too bad. I am reduced to watching each weather forecast as I enter the last week of this odyssey. I am getting tired of each day having to worry about the weather- Will I make my venue? or will I get stuck? …its just exhausting. I was so very lonely leaving Dingle and then Gráinne …this trip has me all over the place….I love the physical aspect of it and the simplicity of pack, eat, cycle, take a break, back on the bike, find my accommodation, shower, eat, write my diary, bed. As I get physically fitter each day I get mentally more and more challenged…. this ingrained habit of doing everything myself is showing up all the sad and lonely aspects of it that I have been able to keep under wraps until now…….. “ A quote from my diary which I wrote as I sat in the dining room in the hostel. The place was quite full with tourists some who had come to Cahersiveen in order to visit Skellig Michéal. I felt very sorry for them as the landlady had to break the news to them that no boats would be travelling out the next day because of the storm approaching. It is very hard to get on to the rock so they were very disappointed as there was no guarantee they would get out the next day either.

September 10th: After an early breakfast and a chat with a woman from Canada who was telling me she had raised her kids and was now doing all the things she had wanted to do up to now but couldn’t, this included a visit to Skellig Michéal. She was sanguine about not getting there today. It was a lovely way to start the day being inspired by another.

I packed up and left Cahersiveen in dull misty not yet too windy weather. It is a beautiful cycle from Cahersiveen via Skellig Ring, with views out to Valentia Island,  Commaciste, Waterville to Sneem. This is part of the ring of Kerry and full of spectacular scenery especially the view from Commaciste. Today was turning out not to be the day from admiring the scenery. As I made my way up to Commaciste the wind began to get stronger and the mist heavier to the point that I had to get off the bike and walk a few times as the gusts were knocking me all over the place. The irony of this wind was it was actually at my back!!! But because it was so strong and gusty it was of absolutely no benefit. At one stage I heard myself screaming at it ” You are behind me now but you are worse than ever….of no use whatsoever except to keep knocking me off……GO AWAY…….” but of course the wind completely ignored me and just got stronger and stronger as we battled with one another until I finally reached Sneem.

I had a very welcome lunch before looking for my B&B. It was lovely and I was given the Donegal Room” a bit ironic!

After changing out of my wet gear and having the needful shower, I ventured out into the stormy wind -the rain had stopped- and sat in the local hotel reorganising the rest of my trip and booking some accommodation ahead.  With the weather warnings the plan now is Kenmare tomorrow night, Castletownbere Tuesday and Wednesday, Bantry Thursday and Friday, Drimoleague Sat and Kinsale Sunday.

September 11th: I left Sneem after a hearty breakfast and enough to make a lunch for later on. During breakfast I  had a conversation with  a couple from Holland who were walking the Kerry Way. They decided to give up as the ground was so wet underfoot and get a lift to Kenmare and then back to Cork. I didn’t feel so bad with all my complaining about the weather after listening to them.

The wind eased up as I approached Kenmare. I saw a sign for Kilgarvan and had an idea in the back of my head that I ought to know this place- it is not part of the WAW. Off I took to check it out and look what I found-this is the kingdom of the Healy Rae’s the infamous T.D.s for South Kerry. They are true characters. Jackie Healy Rae is perched on the first poster and now dead . His son Michael has taken up the mantel. I had landed in the heart of their kingdom so what could I do but buy a few bits and pieces in the supermarket and contribute to their economy.

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I returned to Kenmare in and out of showers and the wind which had returned. I checked into my hostel room, unpacked, showered and changed out of my cycling gear. This is truly a beautiful little town with lots of interesting cafés, shops, pubs and restaurants. I wandered around in and out reminding myself I could not buy anything as I’d have to carry it for a week. I settled for a new pair of waterproof gloves. Believe it or not it is actually very hard to find a pair of fully waterproof gloves as I found out each day I had heavy rain. I also bought the makings of my dinner and returned to the hostel to put it all together.

I met a lovely young man from Belgium-his girlfriend was not feeling and was in bed-. We sat drinking tea as he told me about his life in Belgium. He is training to be a doctor We had a lot to compare and contrast about the two health systems. I’m sorry to say the Irish system came out badly. But we came out on top for friendliness and ordinary caring as he recounted to me some of the experiences they had as they walked the Kerry Way. At one stage he fell as he crossed a stream and all his clothes got soaked. The B&B they were booked into took them, washed and dried them free of charge. He was truly surprised and I was surprised that he was surprised- sure what else would we do????

The landlady had told me earlier that there would be music in many of the pubs around 7.30pm. I really didn’t believe her as so far all my experiences of music in pubs had started after 9pm and more like 10pm. By that time at night I was only fit for the bed! My doubts were short-lived as I wandered down the town. Passing one pub the music sounded good so in I went. It was full of tourists having dinner and enjoying really good traditional Irish music. And lo and behold it finished at 9.30pm. All I could think was how well the Kerry people know how to cater for tourists that do not want to stay up all night. Actually Kerry is the stand out place for tourism in my estimation.

I sat up at the bar ordered a drink and started on my diary. I was so engrossed in writing that I didn’t properly hear a man a few seats down from me ask was I writing a book? I looked up when I realised he was addressing me and saw two Americans  finishing dinner. I replied no, not a book just my diary of the cycle so I’d remember it! We got into a great chat. This was their first trip to Ireland and so far they were thoroughly enjoying themselves. I was delighted to be able to encourage them to visit different parts of the WAW as they had a hired car. They filled me in on their ever so interesting life in Pennsvlanyia. They were now into retirement and travelling to places they had had on their bucket list for years. We had a drink together and by the end of our conversation they had a plan for the rest of their holiday! I have become so much more comfortable chatting  with strangers in pubs and having very interesting conversations to brighten my cycle. Each and everyone of them have been so encouraging about my adventure- hopefully it will begin to rub off on me by the time I end.

September 12th: I left Kenmare at 8am with the intention of getting to Castletownbere before the weather deteriorated again as was being forecast. I decided to take the coast road and it was a good decision as it was truly beautiful from Touist to Lauragh. The road had overhanging trees and then spectacular views across to the Iveragh Peninsula. I was leaving Kerry and entering Cork the final county on the WAW.

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I stopped in Ardgroom for the coffee and scone break. Yes I was finding my lovely coffee shops in all the towns and villages of Kerry. The village was  painted in such beautiful colours as were the villages of Eyeries and Allihies. The were undoubtably the most colourful places so far, I came to my own conclusion that some very creative and courageous people must live around here, who were willing to risk creating villages full of delight. I decided as the weather was good -maybe the weather forecast was wrong?????-I’d take in Allihies instead of taking the main road. Well I was no sooner out the WAW when the weather suddenly changed- as it can coming in off the Atlantic Ocean. The wind swept in from the sea and the rain lashed down. I saw nothing of the area and had to pass through Allihies with my head firmly down and focussed on staying on the bike. I passed Dzchogen Beara Meditation Centre. The only way I could identify it, was seeing some Buddhist looking flags blowing in the wind.

I had no idea how much further I had to go to reach Castletownbere as there was not a sign to be seen anywhere. Finally I saw a poster for a café so decide I must be near. I was praying it would be easy to find my B&B as  by now I was like a drowned rat. Much to my delight the first B&B sign had the name of mine on it. Oh such joy to be at my destination. I was met by a lovely man who had no problem with me walking through the house dripping wet. Off with everything. I was thrilled to find I could put on the heat and dry everything. I collapsed on the bed and fell asleep for an hour.

When I came to, I donned the now dry wet gear and headed off to check out Castletownbere.

 

My landlord explained to me later that he thought the town was caught between Bantry in Cork and Kenmare in Kerry and tourists only used it to stop off. He was delighted I was staying 2 nights. It is an actual working fishing town on the Beara Peninsula. Some boats had come into the harbour sheltering from Storm Aileen. At last an official storm! I bought a few bits and pieces returned to the B&B and watched TV for the evening listening to the wind and rain hitting the bedroom windows.

September 13th. It was an unusual experience to get up have breakfast and not pack up for my next destination. I felt a freedom to just explore the area for the day. The storm had passed and we were now back to normal wind and showers in the morning. Off I took to the Healy Pass another nice climb with stunning views of both Cork and Kerry from the top.

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I decided to go up  and down the same way as I wanted to visit the Dzchogen Beara Meditation Centre after all I had heard about it. I honestly have to say after my experience of Mamór Pass in Donegal no other climb has felt as difficult and I give myself full permission to enjoy the freewheeling downhill. I don’t think any photograph can ever give the full experience of the height of these hills. I returned to Castletownbere and continued on to the Dzchogen Beara. By now the showers had stopped  and the sun came out. I spent two of the most calm and easy hours there.

I had lunch in the café and a lovely chat with the man serving. I then sat in meditation, walked in meditation and generally gave myself permission to enjoy my time there. It was so good for me. The quiet, being alone yet not lonely. Sitting looking across at Sheep’s Head was so beautiful and calming. I felt an ease descend on me as I sat and contemplated this journey I was on. How it had become a cycle out of one life that I knew well and was now a cycle into the unknown. I knew as I sat there I could not return to life as I had know it in Recess for 27 years…something had to change and right now I did not know what that was. Dzchogen Beara seemed to lend itself to this kind of contemplation being ok. I sort of felt many people had passed through this Centre looking for something new, something meaningful in their lives. I had the sense of not being so alone in my quest for meaning, belonging, mattering.

As I cycled away I took something with me. I was not a stupid person to have the feelings I was having. I was having a very difficult time, I was grieving the loss of a life as I had known it and somehow I was not alone in this. I began to feel grateful for Storm Aileen otherwise I would not have stayed 2 nights in Castletownbere and I would have missed this place.   “You may encounter many defeats, but you must not be defeated.” MAYA ANGELOU  sprang to mind.

My cycle back to town was so beautiful as now I could see all I had missed yesterday.

 

Back to my B&B. Shower, change back into my “civies” off to the local hotel for dinner, and my diary date. Back to B&B, packed my bags ready for the morning and then bed.

September 14th: After breakfast and a nice closing chat with my landlord I packed the bike, set the Garmin and checked the Gopro for batteries. Left Castletownbere in nice sunshine and the odd shower, cycling through Glengarriff, Ballylicky and Whiddy Island in the distance.

 

Yet again this is a very beautiful part of the country. It has a micro climate which allows plants and trees not common in the rest of Ireland to grow here. I very much enjoyed the trip to Bantry my destination for the night. Again I had my fair share of lovely coffee shops to choose from, for my now almost compulsory coffee stop!

I arrived into Bantry round lunchtime. This was a bustling busy town and I received many different directions to my Airbnb. I think I saw an extra amount of the town as I was sent up and down streets that were nowhere near my destination. One woman confessed to having lived all her live in the town but could not figure out how to give me directions. Eventually I found it. Airbnbs can be harder than normal B&Bs to find as they do not have signs outside their houses.

I was greeted by two very friendly people who had just started their Airbnb a few months earlier. They were fascinated by my trip and very keen to get the details of where I had been. This is my final time staying with friendly strangers and I’ll be here two nights.

After my chat which at moments veered into a kind of interrogation about the trip, I unpacked my saddle bags, repacked a small bag and took off to explore Sheep’s Head Peninsula. This cycle was again spectacularly beautiful, up and down some steep little roads, sunshine all the way and my usual companion -wind.

On my outward trip I met my second cycling group. There was loads of them all dressed the same, with cars to the front and to the back. They were in bunches or alone all heading into Bantry. I’d find out later that they were cycling the inaugural WAW Cycling Sportif. This seemingly will become an annual WAW cycle in September for cycling clubs from abroad and Ireland. It looks very well organised and people are well taken care, and a good idea to extend the WAW season.

As they passed me by I did feel a twinge of longing for their organisation and the company of other cyclists. The longing actually grew inside as I cycled towards Seefin Point.  When I got there I decided to let my cycle to Sheep’s Head tip go, as I was truly tired of being in beautiful places with no one to share them with. Just another few days of my own crazy-making company. I thought I’d try maybe something different this day-kindness. Yes it would be ok to let this part of the cycle go. I could return here in the future. I’m constantly amazed at how hard I find it to practice self-kindness. But today it was top of the agenda! So I circled back to Bantry enjoying the views, the whooshes down the hills and the sun on my face.

I decided to have dinner before I went back to the B&B as it is a bit up above the town itself. The hotel I chose happened to be the same as the Cycling Sportif riders. They were all in the bar having drinks and meals, now my longing had turned to envy and a stronger resolve not to take this trip again without company to share it with.  With that I decided to enjoy being on the edge of many people while I ate my dinner and wrote my diary. I had a nice walk around Bantry as I walked my bike back to the Airbnb.

September 15th:  After another very chatty breakfast I packed a little bag  for my trip to Mizen Head and back. There was a farmers’ market starting up as I went through Bantry town. I stopped and stocked up with some lovely brown bread, rye bread and cheese. Stocked up for lunch for the next few days.

I cycled via Schull. When I was a teacher in the VEC in Cobh, Co. Cork being sent to Schull was like a “threat” if you misbehaved! As it was so far away those days -I had no car and Carlow where my family lived was days away I tried my best to behave! Years later when I visited Schull for the first time I was kinda sorry I had behaved!!!!!! It was and is a beautiful town in West Cork. I took a few moments to visit some good memories I had of the area before continuing on towards Mizen Head.

On route I passed Barley Cove where a film was being shot. Such a beautiful place and day for it. This looked like a very popular place for holiday makers. But today other than the film crew the stunning beach was deserted.

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I continued on some tiny little roads to Mizen Head. There was lots of traffic to contend with as many people seemed to be visiting Mizen Head as well. I was amazed at the difference between the development of Mizen Head in comparison to Malin Head. Mizen Head has a big restaurant. You can sit inside or outside; a large car park; a playground for children and a walk along the cliffs. Such a contrast to Malin Head with its mobile café!

I sat and took in the beauty around me and because the day was so clear I could see Fastnet Rock in the distance.The Fastnet Lighthouse is known as The Teardrop of Ireland, the last sight of Ireland for emigrants sailing to America. I had also heard about it in reports from some sailing competitions as it has very dangerous seas around it and numerous people have been rescued there. My lunch from the market in Bantry tasted so good as I sat outside watching all the various people meander around the complex. At this point I have cycled from the most Northerly part of Ireland to the most Southerly on the longest cycling route possible.

After a very pleasant break I turned to face into a fairly hearty wind on my way to Bantry. I was able to return on a different road so had more new views to take in. I stopped in Durrus and had a pint of cider as I was beginning to wilt a little. This gave me the lift I needed and I arrived back in Bantry feeling physically quite tired. It was a 100km round trip. I showered, had a bit of a rest and went in search of dinner. I found another nice hotel bar and had a very tasty dinner. This is my last night on my own. My last dinner on my own. My last B&B on this trip. I am so glad  I have actually reached this far and have so many mixed feelings about it ending. I want to keep cycling but I do not want to spend any more time on my own.

September 16th : After breakfast and farewells I hit the road for Ballydehob. I had quite an unexpected climb from Bantry to Ballydehob so I decided I had earned a stop and a very nice coffee in a the local health food shop and café. The next part of the journey took me to Skibbereen. I really like this town and had to keep reminding myself I could not buy anything as I was still on a bike!

I decided to add in Baltimore as it is part of the WAW and I had plenty of time before I met my friend Margaret. Off I went on one of those round trips out and back. I don’t know what I was expecting but for some reason Baltimore did not live up to my expectations. Maybe I’m just tired and also the day was getting very dull.

I sat outside a nice pub and finished off some of my bits from the farmer’s market in Bantry. I returned to Skibbereen in the rain and wind. Rarely have I managed to have a fully fine day. I eventually found the road to Drimoleague as it is not part of the WAW. My friend Margaret lives there and as it is only 10km from Skibbereen I was thrilled to go and visit with her for the night.

I waited in one of the local pubs for Margaret to arrive and was entertained by a man who was walking around West Cork relaying his adventures to the lads at the bar. On Margaret’s arrival she gave me directions to her house and I cycled out ahead of her. She got some shopping for our dinner.

Again I was stuck by the depth of my appreciation for my friends and the warmth of the welcome. I unpacked all my bags and was able to dry out my wet gear. Dinner, wine and a great catch up made my night.  I slept soundly on this the final night of my WAW Cycling Odyssey.

September 17th: The final day has arrived. It is bright, sunny and at this moment no wind-yippee. I chatted with Margaret over a healthy breakfast, packed my saddle bags for the final time, set the Garmin to record my final stage and I was ready for off.

My spirits were high as I returned to Skibbereen and this time took the road to  Clonakilty. This part of the cycle took me to Union Hall and Glandore. As it was early on Sunday morning I had these small roads to myself. When I stopped in Glandore to take in the view I met two women out for an early walk. It was such an enjoyable experience to cycle up and down the roads with no wind. I was fascinated that this last day was looking as if it would be one of the best weather-wise. I stopped in Rosscarbery  and took a look around at the town my parents had spent their honeymoon in 61 years ago. I’m sure it has made a lot of changes since then-I found it bright and cheerful on this sunny morning.

On I continued to Clonakilty. The last time I was here all the streets were dug up as they had suffered very badly in the flooding earlier in the year. They did great job and the main street is so very pleasant to walk through. I stopped to ask group of young men the correct road  to Timoleague, as yet again the sign posting was not great. The road to Ballinspittle is along the edge of the sea and very beautiful. But much to my profound disappointment/annoyance the wind arrived to accompany me the rest of my trip. I truly wondered did it think I was missing it too much. I almost cried.

By the time I reached Ballinspittle I was ready for a break. Ballinspittle is the town associated with the moving statues of the 1980’s. For a few months back then people flocked to this little town to see or not see the statue of Our Lady moving in the grotto on the outskirts of the town. Well I can honestly say nothing moved today!

I had a most lovely hearty bowl of soup sitting in the sun outside a café I remembered visiting before. A young couple with two kids were having their lunch. We struck up a conversation about the cycle. I was almost impressed myself with it as these two young people couldn’t imagine doing it!!!!

After they left I had a conversation with myself and the wind. Would I continue on to Kinsale Head or let it go and make straight for Kinsale itself. I finally surrendered to the wind. It won. I had to acknowledge its superior power, bow down to it, stop fighting and head straight for Kinsale. My sister and brother-in-law Geraldine and Don were waiting for me there. I texted to say I was 10km away. 10km from the finish-2660km behind me…..

On the edge of the town I was met by two cheering, mad looking people running towards me- my welcoming party. I imagine the people nearby must have been wondering what was going on as we hugged and cried. I had completed the Wild Atlantic Way from top to bottom, and they were so proud of me. Texts came flying in as the completion photos were sent around to the rest of my family and friends. They were all so thrilled for me…….I didn’t know how I was feeling….

It was also All Ireland Football Final Sunday and Mayo were out to see if they could break their 51 year drought by beating Dublin. We unpacked the bike, locked it up and headed for a pub with a TV. Unfortunately Mayo lost in the final kick of the match. I truly felt so sad for them.

Back to the car. Hitched the bike on to the bike rack and off we all went to Kanturk on this the final day of my odyssey.

My physical cycle was over but my emotional and mental cycle was to continue.

 

 

2nd. September.

Saddle bags packed with fresh clean clothes, washed shoes, fresh supplies of fruit and nuts, book, diary and pens. Wet gear on, Garmin in place and Go pro in my pocket. ( I had downloaded all my videos and photos taken on route to date. When I looked at the videos I realised I had videoed hours of roadway!!!! I laughed heartily as I had worn it everyday on my helmet or bike thinking I  was capturing stunning views, instead I had hours of broken white lines. It summed up the nature of much of my trip so far-head down and bracing against the wind. I decided this time I’d stop every now and again and video around me rather than wear it on my helmet.).

I hit the road round 9.30am in a heavy mist. Down the Inagh Valley to Cashel Cross and back on to the WAW. After about 15 km the mist turned to rain and the wind  strengthened.  The two previous days had been dry and sunny. Was someone telling the rain and wind gods and goddesses that I was back on the bike????

This trip to Galway took me on roads I knew well as they had been part of my training routine over the past year. On a dry sunny day this route through Letterard, Carna, Casla, Inverin, Barna and Galway is beautiful with views across Galway Bay. But today all that was non existent. The rain bucketed down relentlessly and the wind was merciless in its strength.

I made one stop in a lovely café for coffee and lunch in Casla. I decided to opt to sit indoors this time even if I was to leave puddles of water under my table. It was a busy spot as I’d say many people where looking for a place to get a bit to eat and refuge from the rain and wind. I have noticed how much I like sitting in cafés, restaurants and pubs that have lots of people around. I think for that few moments I can feel part of a group  rather than the relentless isolation of the cycle.

When I finished I donned my wet gear -I no longer call it rain gear- and headed non stop for Galway city.  I was staying with my friend Marion for the night. The days I know I will end up staying with a friend have an easier quality to them. I have something nice to look forward to and will have someone who knows me to chat with and discuss the emotional issues of the cycle.

I had the most lovely hot shower to refresh me. I think water is a bit like weeds….bear with me in my imaginings, remember my mind is probably soaking wet with all the rain I have endured….. it is said “a weed is just a flower growing in the wrong place”. Well in my mind rain is water falling in the wrong place!!!! A shower is water falling in the correct place and I have to say each night on the trip I took great pleasure and felt blessed as I turned the faucets and out came hot water to ease my tired and sore muscles.  This night was no different.  Marion had the fire lighting so I could dry out my gear. A lovely meal, a bottle of wine, great conversation all prepared me for a nights sleep.

Through our conversation I had been able to finally find the word to describe the trip. Marion had asked was I enjoying the cycle. As I reflected I realised the word was endure not enjoy. My fantasy trip had been based on enjoyment, whereas the real trip was an endurance test especially mentally and emotionally. Physically as I have said before it was a surprise how fit I was. Every evening as I looked in the mirror I was constantly surprised to see a fit, tanned and very healthy woman look back at me. I kept expecting to see a haggard, old woman but no, my outside was looking very different to my inside -yet again the story of my life, a mismatch.

3rd. September.

Repacked my bags, had breakfast, waved goodbye to Marion and headed out the road to Oranmore. The morning was grey and misty. Being Sunday the roads were very quiet. I also reckoned most of Galway had headed to Dublin and Croke Park as the All Ireland Hurling final between Galway and Waterford was on in the afternoon. I was hoping I might find somewhere to watch it on route.

Off I went through Oranmore and on to Kilcolgan. I stopped here for a coffee in the mist and then off again towards Kinvara. It was still damp and dull as I past through this lovely little town. I met my first early morning tour bus as tourists piled out and wandered across the road as only tourists can, to see the castle ruins. I managed not to knock any down or be knocked off my bike by groups of disembodied people chatting and absorbed in their wish to see the castle.

As I nearer Ballyvaughan the mist began to lift and I had my first view of the amazing landscape of the Burren.

No matter how many times I visit this area I am always taken aback by the limestone hills that give the appearance of a lunar landscape in my mind.  I had the pleasure of removing all my wet gear and cycled along in shorts and light cycling gear. The one positive about the weather has been the lack of cold. It has felt quite tropical at times….warm and wet!

I decided to stop around Gleninagh for lunch. It was beautiful looking across Galway Bay to the roads I had travelled yesterday into Galway. I could see the Twelve Bens in the distance. I had no sooner sat down and opened my lunch when the mist came billowing in from Finore around the corner.  On went the wet gear and my lunch was hastily put back under cover so save it getting soggy. I was joined in my little layby by an Indian family who also decided to stop and have lunch. The smell of curry was mouth watering as they dished it out from the back of their  car.  The mist was not deterring any of them from enjoying it.

I packed up all my bits and pieces and took off for Fanore. As I rounded the bend to view this beautiful beach it was like someone lifted a veil and the sun beam out. The change was striking as can be seen in the two photos below.

 

The rest of my journey to Milltown Malbay was cycled in warm sunshine. At times I was actually in shorts, tee shirt and for the first time out came my sunglasses. They had been a gift from my nephew in Australia but had not seen the light of day till now. Oh the joy of a pair of sunglasses!!! I actually managed to top up my tan! I finally experienced the weather I had dreamed of….a slight breeze and warm sunshine. The coastline of Co. Clare has always delighted me, the beaches, the rock formations, the cliffs all so radically different than anywhere else I had been. I cycled on through Doolin and Liscannor  listening to the match on my radio although the signal was a bit erratic. I still kept hoping I’d find somewhere to see at least some of it.

Luck was on my side. In Lahinch I heard cheers coming from a pub whose door was wide open. I stopped and realised this was ideal. I could park the bike outside, stand near the door to keep an eye on it and still watch the last 20 minutes of the match. I ordered my usual pint of cider and as I leaned against the wall a man offered me his seat. I declined as I had been sitting on the bike for quite awhile and was enjoying standing upright. We got chatting as I am beginning to notice happens in pubs where matches are been shown and I’m also longing for connection so I take up each offer with gusto now. He was an avid Galway supporter so he filled me in on the seed, bred and generation of all the Galway lads playing. He made the experience extra interesting. Well the cheers of delight when the final whistle blew and Galway won could be heard far and wide. We were a on a high- I am becoming such a GAA fan!

The trip to Milltown Malbay felt so easy as I returned to listening to the commentary on the radio- utter delight for Galway and utter devastation for Waterford. I have learned that All Ireland Finals are never neutral events, they are packed with emotion on one side or the other and today was no different. I landed in my friends Mary and PJ’s house in Carrokeel just outside Milltown in time to appreciate the best sunset of my trip to date.

I had the house to myself as my friends were wandering around France in their camper van. It was nice again to be able to make my own dinner and relax in a house I knew. As ever I spent some time writing up my diary of the day. It was definitely weather-wise the best day so far. I could feel the “sun burn on my arms and legs” and see the outline of the sunglasses on my face. It was a good day and in the midst of that goodness was a vein of sad loneliness. The loneliness had a different quality to it as I am now mainly cycling roads and routes I have been on before.

Earlier in the trip the loneliness  had been like a huge grey cloud sitting on the back of the bike, with its relentlessly critical voice telling me how stupid I was to embark on this trip; how I should have known beforehand how hard it would be; if only I was more sociable I would not be in this position; maybe I’ll never fit in; wasting my life; just get on with it; get over yourself  no one has died; stop being so self-pitying, so dramatic and  on and on and on…..I just could not stop them. My mind felt like one of those old fashion LP  vinyl records stuck on the record player going round and round with no let up.

Since I entered more familiar territory it had a quieter quality to it, almost as if it had seeped under my skin. The feeling of loneliness had caught me by surprise at the beginning of the cycle and had shouted its messages to me back then. This quote spoke volumes to me:

” ...one of the most influential motivators of my own life, the longing to belong, was shaping me in ways that I was largely unconscious of, until it finally grabbed me by the hair and pulled me deep into its terrifying dimensions.” Toko-pa Turner.

Now I had come to accept somewhat reluctantly that this was my companion and there was no point in fighting it. My job was to try and open to being curious about it and why it was being revealed to me at this stage in my life. Why had a 2670km cycling trip opened up the doors of belonging, fitting in and loneliness at this time in my life?

4th September:

I hung around the house the next morning hoping the heavy mist that had returned would lift. By 10am I gave up waiting, donned the wet gear and headed for Kilkee via Quilty and Doonbeg. Doonbeg is the home of Donal Trump’s Golf resort. I had the great pleasure of seeing it for miles along the road. Actually it is impossible to avoid it as it is located on the highest point in the area!!

I continued on to Kilkee with the intention of stopping off for a coffee. I expected to enter a buzzing town but instead it was virtually empty-like a ghost town. The only thing missing was tumbleweed rolling down the main street. I felt so sorry for the people there as their tourist season must be extremely short-lived. The beautiful beach was empty.

I found a small supermarket and bought a few bits and pieces for lunch and off I took to Loop Head. One of the reasons the WAW is so long is the double journeys in and out to the coast. This was one such. It’s approximately a 60km round trip from Kilkee to Loop Head! It also has to be the flattest road so far, well actually Co. Clare is mainly flat road cycling on the WAW. Believe it or not half way out the Loop Head road I began to long for a hill and had some nostalgic feelings for the hills of Donegal…..At least the wind was still with me -no fear of being abandoned by it on this trip. I cycled into it on the way out and thankfully I had it with me most of the way back. The lighthouse is beautiful with an unobstructed view right out the Atlantic Ocean. I have great respect for these lighthouses and the vitally important work they do in keeping boats and people safe.

After a lovely walk around the grounds to the cliffs I sat on the grass and had my lunch before embarking on the  reverse cycle. The high point of my return journey was stopping to let 200 cows cross the road for milking! I know the number as the farmer’s daughter was stopping traffic and we got chatting about the number of cows and the length of time it takes to milk them, approximately 2 hours.  Co. Clare seems to be full of fields of cows much more than I’d seen to date.

I had intended staying in a B&B about 5km outside Kilrush, but as I listened to the weather forecast for the next day I decided if I could get as near as possible to Killimer  -I was getting the ferry to Tarbert- it would be best.

As I stood on the street in Kilrush looking at my map a kind man asked if I needed help.  He informed me that Killimer was only 10km from Kilrush. When I enquired if he knew any B&B there he took out his phone and looked up the number of a pub he knew that might have accommodation. After thanking him I rang the pub. They did not do accommodation but they had the number of the B&B opposite the car ferry. I looked up Booking.com to book a bed only to find it was full!!! I decided to ring them anyway and boy was I delight I did. Yes they had a bed. I was standing outside it in half an hour later. A lovely woman greeted me and showed me to a very comfortable room. We discovered through our conversation that she had no other bookings, which surprised her as she always has someone heading for the ferry. We checked it out to discover she was mistakenly booked up on Booking.com. Thankfully she was able to rectify it before she lost much business. So I was delighted with the bed for the night and she was delighted I had looked to book in…a win-win for both of us!

After a shower and change into my only non cycling clothes I headed to the pub for a lovely dinner and a new type of cider, Cronins absolutely lovely. I had a great chat with the owners of the pub as the man was a cyclist. We spent about an hour comparing cycling highs and lows! These random conversations are like  precious gems to me now and I have stopped holding myself back when someone offers to chat or is interested in what I am up to. I was well fit for bed by the time I left the pub.

5th September: The rain that was forecasted fell during the night so by breakfast it was just grey and dull. I felt a wave of excitement for the first time on this trip as I walked to the ferry. I was heading for Kerry my favourite county in Ireland and a few days camping near Dingle-my definition of happiness.

For all my years camping in Kerry I had never explored north Kerry before. This would be another day of unknown roads- yet being in Kerry I did not feel quite so alone!!! I would end my day in Tralee and meet my sister Geraldine….all positive things to look forward too.

My first stop of the day was in Ballybunion. After my experience of Kilkee I was  a little wary of going there and finding another empty seaside town but no there were people wandering around and  I found a lovely café with delicious brown bread and coffee. Another conversation was struck up with two people sitting outside a small art gallery. I am actually becoming quite adept at the art of easy conversations. And my well packed bike is often an opening to the positive side of Irish curiosity! I took some time to wander around this town, its beach and castle ruins before a huge shower fell.

As I left Ballybunion the road took me alongside the famous Ballybunion golf course and a statue erected to Bill Clinton. Many famous people have play golf here-seemingly.  One would think I was an avid golf player but I definitely am not. My dad was an excellent player who tried his best to get me to play it but to no avail. That little white ball annoyed the life out of me. But as other members of my family play I am kept up to date on all golf matters…..

I came to a T junction Ballyheigue 2km to the left , the WAW route to the right, off I went cycling  around Kerry Head – a 40 km trip to Ballyheigue!!!! Again the weather took a change for the better and out came the sun. Unfortunately the wind got stronger and it was a full blown head wind all along the coast. The fields were very busy with famers making hay and silage so there was a great air of activity all round. I was also meeting lots of cars and the start of the camper vans. Kerry was busy with tourists everywhere and later in the day I was to meet my first group of cyclists!!!  Ballyheigue beach was magnificent with the waves rolling in as the wind was enjoying itself as it was blowing wholeheartedly now.

By the time I reached Ardfert I decided I’d go straight to Tralee and bypass Fenit. I just didn’t have the heart to face into the wind on the way to Fenit. Mentally I put it on my list to do in the future. My sister Geraldine rang to check my estimated time of arrival in Tralee. I assured her I was not going to Fenit so I ought to be in Tralee in about an hour. Decision made I set off with my spirits good, looking forward to being in Tralee and having time with Geraldine.

Much to my absolute surprise about 30 minutes later I found myself 2km outside Fenit with no notion how I got there!!!!!!! Being so close I decided I’d go and see what Fenit looked like. I have to say I was not disappointed as it was absolutely beautiful looking out at Fenit Lighthouse and I sent the two photos below to Geraldine to surprise her with where I had ended up.

As I turned for Tralee I had the most fabulous surprise as the wind was with me and I had the sheer delight of being whooshed into Tralee. I barely had to pedal and realised just what I had been missing cycling into the wind all the time. I imagined it took me a few minutes to get to the edge of Tralee.  I found my B&B in a lovely small hotel in the heart of Tralee. The staff understood cycling and helped me put my bike away safely. I noticed a group of men and women having drinks in the foyer to find out the next day that they were a group of cyclists cycling from Sneem to Galway for charity. Right now a hot shower beckoned and I was ready for dinner and good conversation with Geraldine. I was so thrilled to be in Kerry:)

 

August 26th: Refreshed after a day off the bike and lots of great conversations with Rita that began to help me sort out some of what I was emotionally feeling on this cycle, I set off from Rosses Point to Killala in Co. Mayo. I realised I was- metaphorically speaking- taking my life in my hands as I placed my Kerry flag in my bike. It was the replay of the drawn match between Kerry and Mayo and I knew there would be a great desire for Mayo to win. As I cycled through Mayo I think most people must have gone to support their team as it was very quiet on the roads. I saw one other Kerry flag on route …we were in the minority and in the end Mayo won. Sad and all as I was for Kerry not to win I could not begrudge Mayo another chance at the All Ireland. That was to be played on the final day of my cycle.

It was a dull morning with a heavy mist as I left Sligo town heading for Strandhill. This cycle was the first on familiar roads as I had often driven here on my way to teach in Sligo. It actually felt good inside to know for once where I was going, at least this first stage into Strandhill. It was very quiet as I stood looking at the waves that relentless roll onto the beach here and provide surfers with so much delight.

From here I headed to Balisodare, Easky and Enniscrone. I was now back on unfamiliar territory.  I stopped at a church fête near Balisodare and bought myself coffee and some lovely brown bread. I was so enthuastic about the homemade breads and cakes, home grown fruit and veg that I made the fatal mistake of stocking up only to realise I now had quite a bit of extra weight to carry. Well at least I was assured I’d have a good supply of wholesome food for the next few days!!!

The cycle was interesting in that most of it was damp and dull with little or no wind and hardly a hill to be seen. My first day of flat cycling. The views across the bay to Donegal were beautiful and interesting to realise I had been looking the opposite way two days earlier.

I arrived in Killala in the late afternoon and found I had booked into a very quaint B&B over a pub full of Mayo supporters. The building was very old and the room had a slight tilt to the left which gave the impression that I was moving sideways as I walked around the room!! Even in bed I thought I would slide out of it.

 

Killala had an air of old fashionedness about it, as if I had stepped back in time. It had lots of pubs, one supermarket I could find and a really lovely restaurant. I had a delicious meal there. It was such a new thing for me to eat in a classy restaurant on my own. This cycle is throwing up opportunities for me to experience many new things. I have spent so much of my life doing things on my own and yet I never experienced being alone in doing them. This cycle has such a different quality of aloneness to it. I think it is the constancy of it …I cycle on my own, I eat on my own and I stay in the B&Bs on my own, I talk to myself. It truly is shining a light on an aspect of my life I have lived yet not fully experienced before.

Over the last year I paid a lot of attention to getting physically fit, to be able for the amount of cycling required. Now I have no worries about completing the cycle and am not questioning my fitness. On the other hand I paid only cursory attention to the mental side of the cycle. I think because I was cycling in Ireland I didn’t imagine for a moment being lonely or  lost. Maybe if I’d been going abroad it would have dawned on me. Anyway I now am beginning to accept it is part and parcel of this trip -just like the wind! I meditated on staying brave and acknowledging the aloneness as a way to give myself support. I developed the manta “Courage before me, courage to my right, courage to my left, courage behind me, courage above me, courage below me. Courage in my body especially my legs, courage in my heart and courage in my mind.” I recited this over and over as I pedalled the highways and by ways. I felt the words slowing sinking in as the days passed.

27th August: Today’s cycle took me to Belmullet via The Céide Fields and the cliffs of north Mayo. 

Thankfully this part of the journey had stunning views as I spent quiet an amount of time “lost”. Again the WAW signage was totally inadequate and I just had to find a way to keep trusting myself as I cycled up and down tiny roads some with grass growing up the middle! The WAW is definitely not organised  around solo cyclists.  I met absolutely no one for the first half of the day. I truly wondered did anyone live in this part of Mayo. The trip from Ballycastle to Belmullet was  very tough. I realise I find cycling hours of bogland very challenging and lonely. Somehow the landscape as in South Donegal gives off the feel of deep sadness and emptiness. I could not find a pub or coffee shop open so I had lunch by the side of the road in Pól a Thómas. My purchases at the fête in Balisodare were feeding me well and I was also lightening my load.

The weather deteriorated by the time I reached my B&B in Belmullet. I could hardly see around me with rain and the wind was blowing a gale. To this day I do not fully know what kind of B&B I stayed in. Again I only had text contact with whoever owns the house. The key was under the potted plant and I was the only person there. My room was lovely and big but so weird to have a house to myself.  I found out in the morning that it was bed only as there was no sign of a breakfast anywhere!

28th August. I left this strange bed and no breakfast house around 9.30am. I kept putting off leaving as it was so wet and windy. Finally I decided I had to bite the bullet and go, otherwise I’d not get to Achill- my destination for today.

I had decided I would head straight for Bangor as it was so bad but again the rain eased up and off I went on the WAW 10 km outside Belmullet. A trip that would have taken me 20km directly to Bangor took 50km on the back roads to Bangor via Tullaghan. Again the WAW signage proved none existent and at one point I actually had to call into a house to ask where was I plus get directions out of the area. The people were very helpful and interested in the trip -although they were not envious of the weather – lashing rain and wind. They set me on the correct road and although I can imagine it is very beautiful around this area I could see nothing. Head was down as I made my way up and down the hilly roads eventually arriving in Bangor.

I stopped for coffee before heading to Mulranny via Ballycroy National Park. This park is very interesting as it has a special status as a dark sky area and they are very proud of this achievement in the area.

By the time I reached Mulranny I was wall falling. A huge wave of tiredness hit me so I decided a bottle of cider and a sandwich were in order in the Mulranny Hotel. It did the trick! I never felt my cycle on the greenway to Achill.  I was helped enormously by the fact that the sun came out and the rain stopped.

It was a most beautiful ride into Keel and my B&B. But this was not the end of my cycle as my landlady encouraged me to continue on to see Keem beach. She was right in that it was beautiful. But I decided only someone who does not cycle would encourage someone who had cycled 110km to her B&B to keep going for 30km more including a very steep climb up and down twice! She did check if I was fit???? I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry at that question as we had been discussing the last 110km I had travelled!!!!

When I finally completed  my cycle for the day I headed to the local hotel for a bite to eat and another cider- I never drank so much cider in my life but it has become a lovely treat. The hotel was full of tourists and for the first time I felt at ease, just like everyone else and loved the feel of company around me.

I had my best night’s sleep of the whole trip so far. I woke up the next morning and realised I was no longer cycling into the unknown. I had cycled most of the roads ahead of me at some point or other over the last few years. I felt so different as I packed up and left my lovely, “normal” B&B in Keel.

29th August. It was a bright morning as I set off to cycle around Achill Island. I stopped a few km out the road to sort out my saddle bags only to see behind me a very dark sky laden with rain. I just about got the rain gear on before the heavens opened. Life was back to normal, the earlier sunshine had been a bit of a blip! I took off to Dugort, Dooniver, Cashel, up Meewlin to Dooega and the Atlantic Drive to Achill Sound. I had another feast of hills and valleys. It was a spectacular cycle and the rain stopped as the sun came out as I approached Cuan na hAisléime

 

The Atlantic was wild as it threw its spray up on the roads close to the sea. It was a nice change to be hit by sea water rather than rain water. I could taste the salt in my mouth as I licked my lips.

After my lunch in a lovely café at Achill Sound I sadly left the island and headed for the greenway though Mulranny, Newport and Westport- my stop for the night. Achill had proved to be a most enjoyable day as my mind felt much calmer and less stressed than to date. I knew I was entering very familiar territory  in South Mayo and west Galway. I had spent hours practicing on these roads so I knew them well.

I had a most enjoyable night staying with my friend Mary.  Again I treasured being able to talk about the issues that this trip was throwing up for me and not feel stupid or ashamed.

30th August: A great night’s sleep in a very comfy bed, a tasty breakfast and off I took to Louisburg. Again the morning cycle was a mix of showers with a growing taste of sunshine. By the afternoon the  sun had won out and I was cycling in shorts and tee shirt through the stunning Doolough Valley.

This has to be one of my favourite cycles from Doolough through the Delphi valley, around Killary harbour and into Leenane for a coffee. Then on to Glasilaun, Lettergesh, Tullycross, Letterfrack and finally to Aughrismore in Cleggan. I so enjoyed every minute of it and the weather was sunny and windy. Amazing how different the wind feels in the sunshine- we were not fighting all the way!

I was back in my partner’s house and ready for two days off the bike-well sort of….-I would cycle part of the WAW to my house in Recess the next day.

It was so lovely to be in a house I knew well, able to cook for myself, wash all my clothes and actually wear something new! As my way to wind down and relax I cut the grass and enjoyed watching the sun go down on Omey Island.

31st August: As I packed the bike ready to head to my house in Finisglen, Recess I noticed I was feeling heavy in my heart. I had to go back to the place I had called home for 27 years but now no longer felt like that. The feeling of no longer belonging in a place I had tried very hard to fit in, was upper most.

I set off up the Sky road to Clifden. It was a beautiful day sunny, dry and windy.

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From Clifden I headed out the road to Ballyconneely and Roundstone. I have begun to notice since I left Westport  the number of tourists on the roads. I am meeting tour buses and camper vans. It’s  like two different versions of the WAW. Donegal and North Mayo do not seem to be as well known as South Mayo and West Galway. As I moved down towards Kerry and Cork I met more and more people including cyclists and walkers -more about this at a later stage.

Today is a lovely trip right beside the Atlantic Ocean most of the way. I went as far as Cashel Cross and then left the WAW to make my way to Recess and into the mountains.

I was delighted to see my two cats Milly and Joey. They are very sociable so there was a noisy, run around the house welcome. I have decided they know me well and were delighted to see me too!!!! Milly is a chatty cat so she had to fill me in on all that had happened for them since I left! Joey is the silent handsome type just looking for lots of hugs.

I then decided to tackle the garden, cut the grass and do some weeding. I recognised an aspect of myself that always comes to visit when I feel stressed -I get very busy. I allowed myself to be so, as I knew before the sun would go down I’d have the ugly lights to contend with -reminding me of not belonging. I felt as if I was going round in shock when I was there as I could not believe how all had turned out. And I just want to pack the bike head and head off again.  Although the cycle has been a difficult and surprisingly emotional rollercoaster it feels better than staying in my house at present. This issue has triggered very old deep hurts and I know I’ll have to face them when the trip is over. But for now I just want to be gone.

The picture on the left as it was , the right as it is now.

 

To be continued……

 

 

Finally the day came to start the cycle!

19th August:Starting in Moville, Co. Donegal. I found a little café open at 8am and had the first of many scrambled eggs on toast and coffee breakfasts!

The morning was grey but dry as I set of with Garmin in place to record my kilometres, Go-pro on my head to film the trip, saddle bags that weighed the equivalent of a small child, packed with a change of cycling clothes, rain gear, shoes and “ordinary” clothes for wearing around my destination each evening, pyjamas, book to read, reading glasses, sun glasses -which I wore twice in 30 days- notebook to record my trip, fruit and nuts to sustain me on route and a weird feeling I could not name.

As I left Moville I headed into the unknown, I had never been in this part of Donegal before let alone cycled it. I followed the signs for the Wild Atlantic Way (WAW) and approximately 3 km outside Moville I encountered a companion who would accompany me on every day of the cycle, namely The Wind. I have to say writing this blog from the perspective of having completed the trip I tried every tactic in my repertoire to befriend the wind but failed miserably. The wind won every battle as I cycled into it , across it, battled with it , was knocked off by the force of it and one late evening experienced the pure joy of having it at my back as I cycled into Tralee……but that is to come. Right now I was cycling into a fairly forceful headwind as I made my way to Malin Head.

An interesting aspect of cycling in Donegal was the hills. I am truly convinced that engineers in Donegal Co. Council walk around looking upwards seeing potential to build roads that all seem to go uphill!!! Initially I comforted myself with the reasoning if I go up I must come down and I like hilly cycling for the thrill of downhill free wheeling…well in Donegal many times when I thought I was on top ready to come downhill, the road took another dive upwards….the songs “The Hills Of Donegal” came to mind. It must be the hilliest county in Ireland.

My route took me to Malin Head via Leckemy, Ballymagaraghy, Culldaff, Portaleen and Ballygorman. The coastal scenery was beautiful in the grey dull light. I encountered an interesting issue on the WAW . It is not designed for cyclists as the signs are too far apart and have next to no millage/Kilometres on them. I got lost and had to flag down one of the very few cars I met to get back on track. Getting lost in a car is a totally different experience than on a bike. Each time getting lost added a degree of anxiety and extra kilometres as much of the time I was on my own on the roads, with no cars, no buses and definitely no cyclists meant hoping I was going the right direction.

Finally I arrived in Malin Head Light House the most northerly point of Ireland . It is a spectacular setting. And most importantly it had a mobile coffee shop. Oh that cup of coffee was the nicest I ever had!

 

 

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I had my lunch sitting on a rock looking out on the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean

I headed for Carndonagh via all the little roads hugging the coastline. And then to Ballyliffin. I had never heard of Ballyliffin until this year when it was announced that they are holding the Irish Open Golf competition there in 2018. I have to say the golf club is in a stunning setting. Finally I arrived into my destination for the night, Clonmany  a lovely village with a good supermarket and a few nice pubs and take away cafes.

I found my b&b in a lovely housing estate on the edge of the village. I have to confess I still have not met my landlord! We were in text contact. He was playing in a golf competition and we missed each other twice as I went to the pub for a much needed bottle of cider. All I know is he is very generous with the use of his house ….”help yourself to any food or drink in the kitchen” was written in the note he left me. And in the morning he had breakfast of fruit, cereal, yogurt and bread left out for me. I heard him snoring soundly as I left early next day.

From my diary ” So this is it- it has started, no longer in my imagination but definitely in my body. Am wondering how will I manage it-on my own, days cycling, wind, rain. I keep wondering who am I these days? Like I don’t know what has happen with me and my neighbours and the impact it has had on me. How I feel full of anxiety and not able to bring joy into my mind …feeling as if I am living outside myself, on someone else’s terms…….”

I had an immediate example of how this anxiety was going to affect me on the cycle. I met a young man who was also staying in the b&b in the evening. He was cycling around Northern Ireland and Donegal in the opposite direction to  me for the weekend. We compared notes on what was ahead of each other the next day. ” Are you heading up Mamór? ” “Yea ” Oh my god its brutal, absolutely brutal climb”.

If this slim, fit young man on a carbon fibre bike with the tiniest little saddle bag found Mamór brutal….how in god’s name was I going to make it up the mountain. All night I tossed and turned worried sick I would not make it up and I’d get stuck in the middle of nowhere. Like all late night mulling catastrophic thinking ran riot….how stupid was I to think I could do this cycle and on and on……

20th August: As the sky brightened I got up, packed the bike, had breakfast and set off to face this brutal mountain. It was dry and quiet as I rode out of the housing estate and along small roads looking out on to the Atlantic with some beautiful empty beaches. As I progressed I felt the road begin to rise and gears began to change. Up and up I went peddling hard until I rounded a corner and saw the WAW sign. I could hardly believe it, the sign for Mamór. I had made it , the view was lovely and I was well……what had all that anxiety been about? ….was I so fit I didn’t find it brutal?…..I took my photos and returned to the bike ready for the downhill. I turned the next corner to discover a wall of a mountain in front of me…..the WAW sign was located 1/3 of the way up Mamór!!!!!!!

Off I took and practiced the most profound mindful meditation ever ….pedal, breathe, pedal, breathe, pedal. breathe, There was absolutely no way to waste any energy thinking about anything else. At one stage I did have the thought my lungs were going to burst but they didn’t! I made it to the top and was so proud of my achievement to cycle a category 1 climb with the equivalent of a small child on my carrier! A huge wave of loneliness hit me as there was no one to share it with in person. I did get lots of positivity from my family viber but I learnt along the way that nothing makes up for face to face physical presence. Loneliness was to be my second companion on this odyssey.

Off I took cycling quite cautiously down Mamór as it was so steep and I had a weight on the back of the bike that made it feel a bit dodgy and sheep wandering from side to side across the road.

I continued on following the WAW signs and arrived at Dunree Head. Here I met  two very friendly men walking their dogs in the early morning. Encounters like this became very precious along the way. It was a beautiful spot with stunning views across Lough Swilly, the sea was so calm I began to think maybe the wind was not going to be an issue and my fantasy of meandering the WAW would happen!!!

I flew through Buncrana as at 9,30am there were no coffee shops open and finally ended up sitting outside a petrol station in Burt drinking coffee and eating a sandwich.

I continued to Letterkenny where I was due to stay the night.  I arrived there round 2pm and decided it was too early to stop and I was on a roll after my high of Mamór so on I went to Rathmullen. I found a lovely welcoming B&B -actually the only B&B – and was very lucky to get a bed. This was the only time I chanced not booking ahead.

After a hot shower I set off to find a pub where I could watch the match between Kerry (my team) and Mayo and a bottle of cider. I had a most enjoyable time there with a group of men who had a  break from “child minding” to watch the match. The craic was mighty and especially when they heard what I was up to I became for a brief moment  the centre of  much admiration! The match was a draw so I took myself for a walk on a lovely beach full of families enjoying this rare warm evening. The water was cool and refreshing to paddle in.

I ended my day in a beautiful restaurant with the best vegetarian dinner I have had in a long time.  All in all it was a good day inspite of my earlier fears.

21st. August. Left my  B&B at 9am and made my way to Fanad Head. More spectacular coastline, vast empty beaches, cliffs, mountains and hilly roads. Wind and rain came back to visit. I made my way to Carrigart via the Harry Blaney Bridge -an amazing structure rising up in the middle of this empty rural area.

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It spans Mulroy bay and makes a  short cut to Carrigart. I arrived in the village of Carrigart at lunchtime. Decided to find my B&B , leave  my saddle bags and head around the Downings with less weight. I discovered Upper Carrigart -the location of my B&B- was actually 5km outside Carrigart!!!! So I backtracked, dropped off my luggage and took off to see the Downings. The rain had stopped, so now I only had my companion the wind to contend with.  Again more beautiful landscapes. Downings was an interesting mix as part of it has a very busy caravan park and mobile homes whilst the back of it is sparsely populated with lots of empty space.

Back in my B&B that night I reflected on the mix of emotions I was beginning to experience on this cycle. I loved the freedom and growing simplicity of my life , yet  the heaviness of heart in the midst of all this beauty was palpable.

Loneliness was not a feeling I had allowed myself to experience most of my life. I learned  at a very early age that loneliness was associated  with being ungrateful. I was used to cycling on my own. I had never joined a club as I am not a fast cyclist -I have endurance rather than speed, and I imagined I’d not be able to keep up with a club. Also being on my own and doing things on my own had been a way of life I took for granted. But now the loneliness came to the forefront with a vengeance.  Much of the landscape I was moving through held a deep sense of loneliness. So my inside emotional life and the outer landscape where mirroring each other.

22nd. August: This was a day of two starkly different halves. I left my B&B on a warm, dry, quiet morning off to see the Glenties. I was closer to the coastline this time out of the high hills but being Donegal they still managed to created roller coaster roads. I was so surprised by this area as it looked like “Lego-land” with the amount of houses scattered all over the landscape. I could not make out any order and wondered what kind of planning permission is given to build! I did imagine there must be a lot of coffee shops here …..but no I did not find any so continued on to a village called Dáire Beag. As I approached the village I got a text from my friend asking was I ok, as the rain was so bad….I looked around and saw no sign of rain and began to make a story that Donegal had less rain than other places!!!!!

Boy was I wrong. As I ate my lunch in the little café I spotted a dark cloud approaching and within minutes the heavens had opened. On went all my raingear as I decided I would be wise to head straight to Dungloe -my stop for the night.

After a few kms the rain began to ease up so I backtracked and headed on the WAW round The Rosses. I was no sooner off again when the heavens opened and I just had to continue. I cycled through walls of water as motorists sped through the many floods that had appeared on the roads.  The landscaped disappeared as the rain poured down. I could barely see ahead of me. I arrived to my hostel in Dungloe like a drowned rat. Every stitch of clothes I was wearing was soaked.

The welcome I received from the  River House hostel owners was so heart warming I will never forget it. They helped me put my bike away and took all my wet clothes to wash and dry. They guided me to a spacious lovely room and gave me directions to a warm comfortable pub to have dinner.

A quote from my diary entry :” Today I learnt about the fear of the unknown. I have been holding fear of not being able to cycle the high hilly roads or of not managing the wind and rain as I listened to the weather forecasts. Today I cycled the roller coaster roads and into buckets of rain and high winds. I realise how the fear of “what might be”23rd, is draining and actually cycling through these fear filled situations is so liberating. I felt so proud of myself as I cycled into Dungloe having achieved way more than I could have believed this morning!”

All night the rained poured down relentlessly and I awoke next morning to hear of the awful destruction that had been visited on the people of the Inishown Peninsula by the deluge that hit them.   Villages I had stayed in or stopped for lunch had mudslides which destroy houses, roads and bridges were washed away. It felt very real as I knew the names of all the places they spoke about. Sadness was the prevailing emotion as I set off from Dungloe.

23rd. August:This was a  very challenging day as I headed up another hard hill The Glengesh Pass.

The wind was relentless and heavy showers made the roads very slippy. The landscape to Glencolmcille was empty, desolate and steeped in loneliness. I honestly do not know how people can make a living here. It was emotionally the toughest day so far. I could not shake off the heaviness in myself. I felt as if I was cycling through sludge at times. I truly wondered what I was doing and yet could not countenance stopping. I arrived into Killybegs as the rain stopped and sun appeared in in the late evening. This time I had booked a little hotel which proved to be a good choice as the bar I had my dinner in was busy and noisy with holiday makers.

I had a nice walk around the fishing port viewing some of the fishing boats in the harbour. This was my last night in Donegal.

24th. August. Off to Sligo and a rest day with my friend Rita.  More wind and rain.

Finally I found my idea of a lovely coffee shop in Donegal town. I sat outside under the awning in the rain drinking delightful coffee and brown scones- a little bit of heaven- . The young woman serving me was amused that I would sit outside on such a wet day . I explained I just could not countenance taking off my rain gear to sit inside and anyway I could keep an eye on my bike.

After being fortified I set off for Sligo town. This part of the WAW is on the main roads and is awful. I had to contend with busses, trucks and motorists in the rain and wind. The road was very narrow in spots and where there was a hard shoulder it was full of potholes. I left the main road at one point to visit Rossnowlagh. Those roads were quiet and gave me a break. Unfortunately it was too wet to enjoy this lovely area.
I was very relieved to arrive in Rosses Point and to meet Rita and finally be in company I knew and knew me.

End of part 3.

 

 

 

Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.T.S. Eliot

In early September 2015 I cycled the ring of Kerry. I was the longest one day cycle of my life and I felt such a sense of achievement when I finished it.

I left Killarney round 6.30am in a grey and heavy mist full of intrepidation and excitement of the adventure and challenge ahead of me.

I stopped in Sneem for breakfast. When I was finished the mist began to lift and the rest of the day was cycled in lovely bright sunshine with the odd puff of wind at my back. I so enjoyed the freedom of the bike, meeting other cyclists passing me, the stunning views of the Atlantic coast line. I lunched in Cahersiveen,  had afternoon tea in Kilorglin and dinner back in Killarney. I was so amazed that I had cycled 170km and still felt so good physical and mentally!

I continued on to Dingle for a camping week in my favourite spot on earth -Campail Teach an Aragail.

As I cycled around Slea Head and the Connor Pass that week I began to reflect on my up coming 60th birthday. I wondered how I would mark it. As I’m not a party person that was not on the cards. Each day on my cycles I passed the Wild Atlantic Way (WAW) signs and slowly found myself formulating the question-would I be able to cycle the whole of the WAW to mark my birthday?

I decided to give it a try. I felt as if I was making the first personal goal of my life. Most things I have done in my life I have kinda fallen into them. This felt different. I would have to get maps, check the routes, sort distances, accommodation and most of all set aside time to practice long cycles. I decided this cycle was for me, not for charity, not me organising for a group but just for me …I would cycle the thoughts of being selfish out of myself over the next 2 years!!!

I also did something else quite different I began to tell people about my idea. I am someone who does things and then eventually tells of my achievements, when I know the outcomes. But something about this adventure felt very different. I was going to challenge the mindset of “maybe you will fail”; “you are too old for this” “who do you think you are ” by actually sharing the idea.

I had 2 years to plan and practice. I set about checking circular cycling routes around Galway and Mayo that would make it possible for me to cycle 100-120Km regularly to build stamina and fitness. That in itself opened up to me so much of the area I have lived in for 27 years.

Each day I was at home I cycled at least 50 km and on one day week I did  100-120km. I found myself trying to think up deep and meaningful excuses as to why I could not attend meetings or do work on the long cycling days, as inside my head  it felt like self indulgence doing something I loved when there where “serious” things to be attended too. I found myself wondering was there a PhD course I could make up that would render these days as very important study days!

I did use many of the cycles to listen to books I use in my work to “justify” to myself that I could work and cycle the same time!!!!

I practiced regardless of the weather. I had to learn to cycle in relentless wind and driving rain as well as warm sunny days. This stood me well when the time came for the actual cycle. My bike was well tested and I acquired excellent rain gear.  I mapped out my route starting in Moville in Co. Donegal and ending in Kinsale, Co. Cork. I checked out accommodation along the way and decided on distances and rest days.

Bit by bit my fitness grew. As did my fantasy and excitment of days meandering the Wild Atlantic Way in sunshine and light breezes, stopping at coffee shops to rest and revive myself, meeting other cyclists,   exchanging stories and helpful hints, dropping in to stay with friends along the route. All in all having a great month with nothing else to do but cycle from one place to the next. My own personal “Camino” on the bike.

Nothing could have been further from the reality of how the cycle actually turned out.

This is the first entry to my WAW diary made the day before leaving home for Donegal:

“About to head to Donegal to start the WAW -on the day when there are rain and wind weather warnings….Is this what is ahead of me? Will I be able for it? Give me strength in mind and body. And on this one of the biggest adventures of my life I feel more depressed than I have for years-the weather actually matches my inner life, full of sadness and emptiness.

As I watch walkers on the Western way pass my window soaked and tired -if they can do it I will do it …..I have to find some belief in myself.”

 

To be continued……

 

 

I am just back from my morning cycle. The nip was in the air signalling the change in the weather. We have now entered the time of late autumn. As I cycled I took the time to look around me and in that simple act I felt myself filled with a sense of wonder and gratitude for the day. And I remembered it is Mental Health Day today. I felt compassion for all the people who in this moment would not be able to see what I was seeing all around me – the mist rising from the lake, the moon shining bright and strongly over the 12 Bens Mountain range, the sun colouring the eastern sky with deep orange and pink through the grey clouds, a calf sucking milk from its mother, teenage lambs nestled into their mothers before rising for the day, all quiet as the drama of a night changing to day unfolded.

I could see all this as my mind was quiet and steady. I have known many days when this scene would have been invisible to me as my mind would have been heavy with pain and sadness. When none of my senses would have been available to see, hear or smell what was happen around me. Where my mind would have been stuck in a loop from the past or a loop planning the future way out of the present moment’s pain.

I felt a deep sense of gratitude that change is a feature of life and that things can and do change. I felt the good fortunate that I had had the structures in place to help facilitate the change to be positive.

I live in a (usually) very windy place and it is hard to grow anything delicate or with petals as the wind whips them away . A few years ago I planted a hedge on one side of my garden in the hope that it would provide some shelter for flowers to grow. I also planted a rose bush (totally unbeknownst to myself as I cannot remember doing it, I have to admit) just in front of the hedge . This summer I had the great pleasure of watching it bloom and provide me with something I never thought possible in my garden – a beautiful red rose unfolding fully 🙂

I studied its growth each day and realised that all the things needed to blossom were in place-protection from the hedge, support from a strong stem, nutrition from good soil and sufficient water. It did not need to use its resources to fight the wind or storms, instead it could use everything to fully become itself. I though such a great lesson for life. When all our resources are lined up to support our mental and physical health we can fully become who we are meant to be caring, compassionate, joyful human beings. But when we have to use all our resources to defend against our demons whether internal or external it is impossible to be fully vital and well.

So today I am grateful that my own internal resources where in a positive mindful state of mind this morning to allow me to appreciate the wonder that was made visible all around me as I cycled. And I will cherish it on behalf of all the people in the world today whose mental health issues cannot allow them to feel this wonder right now…….

 

Oceans

I have a feeling that my boat

has struck, down there in the depths,

against a great thing.

And nothing happens

Nothing . . . Silence . . . Waves . . .

Nothing happens?

Or has everything happened,

and are we standing now, quietly, in the new life?

Juan R. Jiminez translated by Robert Bly

 

I have lately been reflecting on the nature of change. Looking at change as a wave, with a starting point,a heading towards the top of the wave to the point of real change and then the far side of the wave where the new way of being takes root. I often notice how much time and effort, information and encouragement is concentrated on the change taking place yet there seems to be so little around when the actually change emerges. As if a taking for granted that we have gotten what we wanted so now get on with it happens…… Yet I believe the changed way of being needs as much encouragement, effort and time in order to be truly embodied in every fibre of our being,………

what is it actually like as” we stand now , quietly in the new life?

For real sustainable change to take root it is not easy,even if it is what we want or need. The change needs to be nurtured, cared for and supported otherwise it can wither away. The new way will involved a different way of thinking and feeling about life; it will involve different ways of moving in the world, different ways of relating to our friends, family and the wider world. It can be hard, lonely and tough to maintain, especially if the “outside” world is used to us in a certain way and we no longer conform to the old patterning and the new patterning is not fully and strongly in place.

It is a delicate, vulnerable moment, the transition……a moment for great kindness and compassion as the seeds of resilience take root. A time worth being fully present to with awareness and mindful attention. It will set the habits of the new patterning, creating the neural pathways in our brain that will support the change and give us the courage to keep moving forward into the “new life”….